PARIS –
The fun lights at Louis Vuitton shined like a starry front row on Tuesday for the vibrant and viral spring collection from Nicolas Ghesquiere that introduced Paris Fashion Week.
Dramatic outbursts from a tribal drum echo throughout the Louvre’s cascading cobblestones, leading visitors to a surreal world of circus mirrors, Las Vegas lights, and myriad nets red rubber is like a tent – where clothes are blown up.
Earlier in the day, a more refined collection awaited Chanel guests at the Grand Palais Ephemere for one of the other grand draws of the season finale.
Here are some highlights of Tuesday’s spring/summer 2023 collection:
HONEY, I SHARE THE MODELS
If Nicolas Ghesquiere excites a circus set like a theater in a circle, the fun designs don’t disappoint.
For this season, the 51-year-old Louis Vuitton designer let his childhood imagination run wild with the theme blown up.
Giant zippers come with even larger Monogram “hand” pockets, giant bow necklaces, clown-like buttons and giant leather sections reminiscent of the hit movie.” Honey I Shrunk The Kids”.
In addition to the obvious gimmicks, there are several finished looks in the colorful and youthful collection that is also a playful, contemporary regal gown.
Blowing up Elizabethan collars – or are they lifesavers? – got a sporty look on loose, pleated capes and black boots. Elsewhere, the Renaissance collar silhouette playfully moves down the body at another look at hip level.
The madness was methodical – the sheer vibrancy of the designs lends coherence to the entire collection.
Ghesquiere may have gone too far with a series of printed leather inflated zippers, but standout pieces like an embroidered multicolored apron dress certainly made up for it.
LV .’S STARS
Pop icon Janet Jackson looked the epitome of composure as cameras crowded around her inside the oldest courtyard of the former royal palace, Cour Carre, amid shimmering lights.
Jennifer Connelly takes a breather backstage. Lea Seydoux posed for photographers near Fashion’s Richest CEO, Bernard Arnault of LVMH, and “House of the Dragon” star Milly Alcock captured her new-found fame – a feat recent addition to the front row crowd. The Australian actress who played the childhood Princess Rhaenyra doesn’t forget the humour, lamenting that it was “horrible” that her character had to grow up and she was replaced in the hit prequel.
There are so many celebrities out there that some bewildered fashion journalists just sit down, beaten up, with their VIP cheatsheet on their lap.
High-octane scenes like these are the norm at Louis Vuitton – since Karl Lagerfeld’s death at Chanel have been the undisputed highlight of the final day of ready-to-wear in Paris. It’s a great charm for the entire fashion season that passes through New York, London and Milan and always ends in the City of Lights.
CHANEL’S SPRING
Famed Parisian designer Virginie Viard gently rocked the 1980s in a simple black and white master collection that seemed to have nothing to do with it.
There is some small thrill.
The A-line minis draw attention to teasing rays – like the white trellis thigh-high socks. Irina Shayk was ravishing in a shoulderless, sleeveless marble dress with ruffled tiers. Jerseys were made to look like scales.
And a polka dot leather skirt with sturdy rippling peplum lends a historic pensive look to the 1910 home, which borrows nicely from this century’s style.
But the look with which the house has been compared to “a collage” is sometimes also brilliantly taken over by Viard, who took over from Lagerfeld after his death in 2019. The beating heart of this display is a subtle way. economic.
The black and white images of the decor spanning several periods, including the bare historic gardens from the 1961 slow-motion movie “Last Year in Marienbad,” may not help the mood – but the set collectible 71 sometimes feel lack of energy.
However, the accessories did provide welcome vibrant photos. Jewellery clasps, pearl pendants and swinging jewels, and cascading gold chains give it an ’80s trend feel.
CONVENIENT CONDITIONS ONLY
Miuccia Prada’s little sister brand, Miu Miu, has been pragmatic for a collection that includes coats and handbags – followed by a crowd that includes Poppy Delevingne, Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldof.
With fewer bold design features than usual, Prada used anoraks, zippers, and toggles to explore the expansive theme and bring things back to normal.
The front of an amorphous plaster jacket is opened at the top and bottom. The vests had labels on the front, as if they had been placed the wrong way. And a miniskirt was made to look as if it had been worn back to the front.
Later in the 63-look collection, leather designs used double bags that were combined with utilitarian ones to fashion low waists, or lay scattered across an apron.
