‘Euphoria’ makeup artist reveals changes that lie ahead for characters next season
In most industries, getting your job noticed is the first step to success. But for makeup artist Doniella Davy – who goes by Donni for short – the goal was to keep her hands hidden.
“You know your work is good if it’s invisible,” Davy said over the phone. “(The makeup) should be beautifully present in the story and add to it in such a way that you almost don’t realize it’s there.”
Sharp-eyed movie enthusiasts might recognize Davy’s handcrafted moments in recent Oscar-winning films, such as Trevante Rhodes’ smooth skin in the coming-of-age story “Moonlight” or the pair KiKi Layne’s flawless rosy cheeks in the emotional melodrama “If Beale Street Could Talk.” But it was her participation in HBO’s complicated teen drama “Euphoria” – starring Zendaya alongside then newcoms Hunter Schafer, Alexa Demie and Barbie Ferreira – that brought Davy to fame. Famous in the beauty industry thanks to its outstanding appearance but no less sophisticated.
Light skin is a prominent feature of the makeup method in “Moonlight.” Credit: Moviestore Collection Ltd / Alamy Stock Photo
When the show debuted in the summer of 2019, the make-up tone in the first season caught the attention of Gen Z audiences in particular. The look quickly went viral on social media: winged eyeliner studded with iridescent gems, neon orange ringed eyes and ivory eyeshadow hand-painted into miniature clouds.
Hunter Shafer plays Jules in “Euphoria,” one of the show’s most expressive characters in terms of on-screen makeup. Credit: HBO courtesy
Few on-screen makeup artists have achieved the same level of notoriety as Davy during her brief career. In TV and movies — unless indicated by plot — makeup is rarely bold and instead often flies “under the radar,” according to Davy.
“We all secretly long for that recognition, for people to know and understand the amount of work and planning and the real thought and diligence that goes with it,” says Davy. “So it was a really unexpected and really special thing that my work in film and television was recognized.”
The low color lighting, often used in “Euphoria,” was a big consideration for Davy. In these scenes, she focuses on products with shimmery, reflective finishes such as sparkles or jewelry. Credit: HBO courtesy
‘There’s definitely pressure to look cool’
Davy’s vocabulary has no fear. Not long after graduating from Pratt Academy in Brooklyn with a degree in photography, Davy took a leap of faith and signed up for a course in film make-up. She’s built her portfolio by answering ads on Craigslists, helping with student films and low-budget projects.
“I’m not worried about that at all,” she said. “It was a gut decision.”
But at the same time, Davy couldn’t help but feel frustrated as the second season approached. “It’s a bit scary, because I know people are expecting something.”
The metallic face decals used on Shafer in season one went on to inspire Davy’s first foray into commercial makeup. Credit: HBO courtesy
Was it a case of worrying about the drop of the sophomore album? “There’s definitely pressure to look cool…. But there’s also the question, how do I keep the conversation going with makeup?” Davy asked. “Because it just doesn’t make sense to just sound louder – more neon, more gold, or more rhinestones. That’s not necessarily the way to go.”
As with many teen dramas, underage characters face high emotional risks, from substance abuse and prostitution to drug raids. drugs and fled with the police. And it’s indispensable, Davy insists, that the makeup follows each character’s often crumbling journey lines.
“It was a ‘more mature Euphoria,'” Davy said of the second season. “A lot of time has passed. Everyone has grown up a little. We are in the same place, but the world has changed a little. The world of ‘Euphoria’, like our world.”
Makeup was an integral part of portraying the backstory of Kat, played by Barbie Ferreira, in season one. Credit: HBO courtesy
Despite having to keep mum, Davy says makeup responds appropriately by aiming for minimalism. “I find myself constantly drawn to 1960s modern minimalism,” she says. “It was really different.”
But the loose timing, quick sketches, and abstractions are nearly impossible to plan when it comes to Davy’s process, as she doesn’t get the script for the whole season, instead working on it. not chronologically on an episode-by-episode basis. As a result, she relies on the cast’s deep knowledge of who they’re playing because she can’t guess their character’s bow.
“It was always a super collaborative process, in which there was a conversation,” she explains. “I would say, ‘So this last scene, your character has left the party and is crying. And this is where I feel she is in the present. And this is the makeup I have. How do you feel Do you think your character will still wear eyeliner at this point? Or does that feel ridiculous? ‘”
The gem-encrusted eyeliner by Alexa Demie, who plays Maddie, went viral when the first season aired. Credit: HBO courtesy
“I don’t think there’s any turning back on me at this point,” she says with a laugh. “It’s like the beast has been released.”