Today, I saw a watch unlike any I have seen before. That may sound extreme, but bear with me. It’s a new Bulgari, produced in collaboration with Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, crafted entirely with mirror-polished surfaces. (You have to watch this video to see the watch in motion — that’s completely insane.) The seconds hand seems to float in mid-air, while the surface of the watch reflects back to you. It colleagues into your soul, Man. This is just one of the unique and exotic timepieces that debuted at the Geneva Watch Days event, which begins today.
Geneva Watch Days was founded in 2020, at the height of the pandemic, after other major watch fairs canceled their scheduled shows. Since then, watch fairs have returned to normal, but GWD continues to tickle, now billed as a “decentralized and self-regulatory multi-brand watch event” and still heavy on brands. Wild new products from independent watchmakers. Below, we round up the best from the event so far.
Not all clocks at GWD are out of tune — some are just out of the ordinary good. The Doxa Army is of its kind: earlier this year, Doxa launched a limited-edition ceramic military version, but now the watch is expanding. The Army, originally made for military divers in 1968, is being released in stainless steel with a black and bronze bezel with a hunter green finish. And the tiny orange hands and blocky Tetris-shaped indexes give this dial the proper drama.
MB&F’s Legacy Escape Split Escapement EVO
Alright, let’s get started. No brand scratches an itch because of the weirdness more than MB&F, which regularly introduces spaceship– and android– Clock and clock figure. For GWD, the manufacturer is releasing two more versions of the LM Split Escapement EVO: one in a “cold” colorway and another with a black dial limited edition “Beverly Hills”. The balance wheel here is the balance wheel that is suspended in the center of the dial. (In the simplest terms, it’s the component that keeps track of time; think of it like a pendulum.) Here’s some high-level horological magic going on.