Welcome to the first edition of the GQ watch survey. I started putting this together because of the tremendous changes the watch world has undergone over the past few years. Most of that can be traced back to a single point: “There are now millions more people interested in watches,” says Eric Wind, owner of Wind Vintage. That batch of new collectors caused prices to explode for a moment before they swam back down to earth for a bit. Many other types of people – not just wealthy whites, for example – ended up getting more involved. Tastes are also changing: collectors are embracing colors, animal shapes and ambitious designs like never before. In response to the massive amount of change, I asked nearly 20 of the most capable people in the watch world — dealers, watch club founders, brand creators, experts auctioneer, podcast host, and major collector — help us understand the state of the watch world in 2022.
Name the most influential watch manufacturer in the world today.
Jeremy Kirkland, host of Blamo! audio files: Tudor. They set the tone for new collectors, they have an inventory, they are approachable, aspirational, and highly regarded.
Cara Barrett, Founder Parchie Pal: This is a difficult one. My initial reaction — and most obvious — was Rolex, because they are the industry leader in almost every respect. They make watches that are wearable, well designed, and they work very well. They also have the best name and brand identity. Everyone wants to have Rolex’s prestige (even if they can deny it). And before someone says they’re boring – there’s no reason for Philippe DuFour to wear one every day.
Wes Lang, artist and collector: Rexhep Rexhepi.
Jason Gong, Founder and CEO of Complecto: Rolex, hands down. They set trends that everyone else follows year after year. The industry grows like Rolex.
John Reardon, founder of Collectability: Patek Philippe.
Tim Bender, Fog City Vintage founder: In my opinion, Rolex will always have the greatest influence. They are arguably the best marketer in the world. That said, if there is any brand that is truly popular in the collector community, I have to say it is FP Journe.
Rhuigi Villaseñor, founder of Rhude and collector: Richard Mille for innovation. He and the brand did a great job at encapsulating what modern-day luxury is all about. I think young people are very excited about watches. Don’t get me wrong, I’m Patek Philippe at my core, but I love what drives the world forward.
Zoe Abelson, Founder of Graal Limited: FP Journe.
Adam Craniotes, co-founder of RedBar Group: In terms of brand, it remains Rolex by volume, recognition and quality.
Geoff Hess, senior international specialist at Phillips: It’s hard to challenge Rolex’s breathtaking influence in today’s watch community.
What do you think is the most “popular” watch in the world right now?
Jacek Kozubek, founder of Tropical Watch: For me, it’s still Daytona.
Yoni Ben-Yehuda, Head of Watches at Material Good: I’d say Rolex Daytona or AP Royal Oak.
