As Parisian fashion cognoscenti continue to exchange rumors about who will be a late success Virgil Abloh Under the leadership of Louis Vuitton Men’s, one of Abloh’s longtime collaborators is confidently asserting a new direction at Off-White. Ib Kamara, British stylist and editor-in-chief of Ecstatic, was appointed Off-White’s Art and Visual Director in May, after three inspiring years as Abloh’s most trusted stylist. Since then, Kamara has dug deep into the grooves Abloh laid out at the brand he founded in 2012. After the Off-White show Thursday night, Kamara’s first supervisor, he explains how He and the design studio approached the SS23 collection, which was originally started by Abloh before his death. “We’ve discovered all of our house codes and we’re experimenting, and we’re trying out new ideas,” says Kamara. And he has set an ambitious goal for Off-White’s future: “We want to make it the most desirable, most luxurious home.”
The runway show, titled “Celebration,” was certainly any match in terms of audience numbers: despite being on the outskirts of Paris, hundreds of young Abloh descendants swarmed the entrance like Naomi Campbell, Erykah Badu. , Lucien Clarke, Bloody Osiris and other members of the extended Off-White family strut their way into a barn carpeted in warm royal blue. Now that luxury brands are using signature colors left and right, it looks like Off-White will also formalize one color: meet “Impossible Blue”.
Like Jonathan Anderson and the new designer of Ferragamo Maximilian Davis Consider, out marching a caravan of models in tailored jackets and tight sheer panties adorned with muscular lines. Behind the scenes, Kamara elaborates on the theme: “Imagination is one of the key things that we capture,” says Kamara. “One of our codes that Virgil [explored for a] so long is the feeling that you can dream and re-imagine. “
An important element that the Off-White team reproduced is the costume. The loose threads are the gesture to deconstruct Off-White’s signature, feeling that the garments, partially finished, are in the process of being perfected. But here, it was displayed in a new sense of sophistication. “We wanted to pull back and actually find the codes,” explains Kamara, “but in a simpler way, in a more artistic way.” (Kamara used the word “code” several times in our short chat. Abloh is best known for his “cheat code” that guides his creative process, but Kamara is talking about visual elements and brand-specific theme.)