The next wave of New York Fashion Week stars is here

Last night, Luar’s New York Fashion Week spotlight show got off to a late start for the best reason a designer could ask for: crowds of people, even more than a venue. Containers as high as The Shed could handle, arrived and they were ready to party. The word “community” gets thrown around a lot in fashion press releases these days, but Luar founder Raul Lopez has one of the most legitimate claims to a community of friends and fans. The real tough guy in the industry. Many members of the Luar team — fellow designers like Martine Rose and musicians like Ian Isiah — are recognizable top faces you’ll see at other shows. But many are just kids with great outfits and can afford to score an invite, or at least one. screenshot of someone else’s invitationfor a couple shows a season.

Luar is an obvious destination. Lopez co-founded Hood By Air, and HBA performances are famous for being closer to drag competitions or tacit raves than procedural runway events. As Lopez told me during a preview of the show, he energizes Luar: “I grew up where, when you do a show, you have to do a show, you have to turn it off. Go. I come from the ballroom. So I was like, You need to bring it. “

Telfar Clemens to Luar

When the show finally got underway, it became clear that the external swelling was more than warranted: Lopez was making some of the best clothes of her career. A boxy side-effect croc jacket is an intriguing start to men’s quest for a hot look. A pleated jean skirt over a boxy cardigan is Lopez’s versatile swing from the outfits his uncles wear to the family strollers he grew up in. studied in Dominican Brooklyn. A round, stuffed shoulder over a plaid jacket and an oversized white shirt for the indie-mag-editor-star are nods to the weight Lopez has to shoulder as she pulls it off. grew up as a gay kid in a community where presentations were made. everything. (“Latina Elizabeth Taylor” is the tutorial subject for slits, club-ready dresses fitted with oversized church glasses.)

Lopez also learned some lessons from the viral success of her “Ana bag,” which crammed dozens of guests into the crowd. People — a lot of people — want to incorporate Luar into their daily lives. So Lopez is introducing a dedicated denim program. He took it serious: the process starts with an incredible amount of R&D — think 10 millimeter-level adjustments — and the result is the perfect pair of flared jeans. By the time those jeans hit the runway, the house was already down, and when Lopez made his victory, he was hugged by a crowd in a spontaneous group of about a dozen friends in a row. front seat.

The Luar show reminds me that the standout fashion shows in New York are the ones attended by people who only go to see maybe one or two shows a year — the ones that fall. attract their own crew. Sandy Liang has built a loyal fan base that stretches from her hometown base in Chinatown. Liang is best known—especially in menswear circles—for her funky fleece jackets, but her Sunday morning performance, in a Pace University auditorium, was a treatise. Expanded text on school uniforms, scaled down and tall for the Miu Miu suit. There are no jackets in the collection, but a third look is a muscular khaki sport jacket paired with oversized trousers: a winning pick for anyone looking to dig into the ultra-modern look. Liang’s exhibition.

At the National Arts Club, Puppet & Puppet designer Carly Mark has nightlife on her mind. Last week was full of parties — Sunday night alone including Luar, Highsnobiety, Frame x The Ritz Paris, Chrome Hearts and Barragan — instead of the weather, the theme most members or the press complained about was the weather. how tired. and/or feeling hungry. “I feel like NY is really alive right now, people want to go out, people feel really glamorous and they want to connect, and everyone is naughty,” Mark told me after presents a thrilling collection inspired by Close eyes, the artist Gustave Doré, and naturally, partying. There’s a Nicole Kidman camisole and a leather jacket emblazoned with flesh-tones that give off a vaguely playful feel. And a simple zipped white cardigan with the brand’s logo knitted around the sleeve of a jacket over an evening gown. “I wanted to create things you could go out with, things you could feel sexy about, things you could feel confident about, and things that felt like really New York,” she said. Mark is another artist and designer who has dug deep into the downtown scene and will find an eager client if she decides to launch a dedicated menswear line. (I’ll be first in line for that cardigan.) Many of the boys were wearing her Puppets-branded sweaters, and a lot of the guys came in in the light drizzle as guests of the guests. .

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